• Installing a Dakota Digital MCV-7400 Digital Gauge.

    This is written for the Rocket III and Classic.




    OK, a number of Captains have shown an interest in the Dakota Digital gauges but have concerns about the installation. This is how i installed my MCV-7400 ‘Information centre’ on to an RIII Classic (I haven’t checked re: R3T as yet).

    It was a bit of a ball-ache to initially work stuff out as the wiring diagram in the service manual had some wire colour discrepancies... but now the job’s done I reckon I could do another in an hour or so – and now so can you!

    The only thing that I’m a bit miffed about is that the ECM reports an intermittent signal on the speed sensor (IT ACTUALY WORKS PERFECTLY) – this is only reported in TuneBoy or TuneECU and does NOT manifest itself as an illuminated Engine Management light . I’ve contacted Dakota to ask if there’s a reason for it and will post their response.

    Installation options:

    1. If you have T- Bars then also buy the clamp from Dakota – very neat .
    2. If you have Standard or Classic bars you’ll need to either fabricate your own bracket or buy the same clamp and replace the stock risers for 2” risers so that the clamp will fit between them with clearance from the triple tree nut - or place some packing/washers between the risers and triple tree similar to what i did (see pic).


    1.Remove seat and disconnect battery

    2. Raise the tank and trace the stock gauge wiring back to the loom and disconnect BOTH plugs.

    3. Remove the front left infill plate to allow the removal of the gauge loom and remove stock gauges from the bars (below).


    4. Determine the required orientation of the Dakota gauge as they can fit either above or below the T-Bars.

    5. Remove the plate from the rear of the gauge and connect the 3 separate supplied wiring plugs accordingly then feed the wires through the supplied sleeving (I used a fish wire).

    6. Refit the plate according to the required orientation and install the gauge onto the bars (see previous installation options).






    7. If you’re lucky enough to have a spare connector plug and pins then jump to the wiring info - otherwise take a deep breath because now you’re about to start cutting some wires!!

    8. Grab the old clocks and remove the sheathing from the connectors to where the loom splits to both clocks. This is where I decided to cut the exposed wires as I figured that if I ever want to refit the stock clocks it’s a simple task to match the wires back together (below)


    9. Mark the black (ground) wire that splits into 2 – we’ll use this wire for our ground path (below).


    10. I found it best to refit the 2 connectors (with the other half of the wires) that were cut from the stock gauges back to the main loom so that I could feed the Dakota wires through the same route as the stock loom thus giving a better idea of how far I could trim the Dakota wires.

    11. Remove the rear left hand engine in-fill panel (where the ignition relocation kit goes) and identify the speed sensor – it’s attached to the same fixing as the in-fill plate. Pull the fixing plate outwards to gain better access - It’s the left hand triangular plug (3rd pic) which has 3 wires (Black, Black/Yellow, Pink/Yellow).




    12. Cut the plug off the 3 wire Dakota speed sensor (because it won’t fit! - see below) and feed it down to the in-fill area. You need to connect the 3 wires to the stock speed sensor: Black to Black (ground)…..Red to Black/Yellow (power from the gauge)……Green to Pink/Yellow (Signal) – see wiring diagram further down.


    13. Once connected refit the infill panel.

    14. Back up under the tank it’s time to connect all those wires….. not EVERY wire is reconnected (e.g. the water temp, alarm LEDs) so identify the following wires from the bike loom and tape them up - The unused wires are
    Black/Yellow – Grey – Orange – Black (Spare) – Yellow/White



    Utilising the wires from BOTH plugs now connect the remaining wires as per the wiring diagram below ensuring each connection’s integrity...don't forget to use the previously marked Black wire for the ground. Hopefully you can tell the text that I've added !





    That’s it – refit the front left in-fill panel, lower the tank and reconnect the battery.

    Turn on the ignition and if all’s gone to plan then the gauge should light up like a Christmas tree!

    • Refer to the user manual to set the gauge but bare in mind that the supplied oil pressure gauge doesn’t fit the Rocket so configure it to SWITCH in the menu.

    • When setting up the Tacho you need to configure it as a 2 cylinder vehicle (don’t ask me why) otherwise the tacho readings will be way out.





    Luckily for me there’s a measured mile just around the corner from me so calibrating the speedo was set to AUTO (refer to manual).
    Once calibrated, for me the speedo and sat nav remained within 1mph of each other so i was well pleased !!

    Until i run low on fuel my fuel light is configured in the same way as the stock low warning light. When i run dry i’ll configure it to read like a proper bar gauge (see manual).


    Hopefully all went well and your new information centre is all that you expected it to be - although it's a shame that the temp warning light isn't accommodated

    Maybe it's time i mentioned that I'm actually colour blind and dyslexic so if the above doesn't make sense i apologise.... ...but hey - it worked perfect for me brothers!

    Jeez - now i need a beer !!
    Comments 2 Comments
    1. blastedbones's Avatar
      Impressive piece of kit





    1. gworks916's Avatar
      Thanks for all your information, I like that look very much cool,cool.
  • Recent Articles Recent Articles

Google Translations Available For:
Arabic Chinese Czech Danish Dutch English French German Greek Hebrew Icelandic Irish Italian Japanese Korean Norwegian Polish Portuguese Russian Spanish Swedish Taiwanese Vietnamese Welsh